The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition is once again pleased to announce the Red River Reunion Climbing Competition! Come together to test out your climbing prowess while raising money that helps take care of the land YOU own! The competition will take place on March 19. This year, the owners of the Graining Fork Nature Preserve, aka Roadside, are graciously opening their land to the competitors, who will be pit against each other to see who can best climb some of the most classic routes in the Red River Gorge. Winners of their respective groups will be awarded with fantastic prizes, and all proceeds raised will go to the RRGCC! Sign up on the day of the event at Miguel’s Pizza or in the Roadside parking lot. We look forward to seeing you there and wish all the competitors the best of luck!
The weather is cool, the leaves are turning, and another successful Rocktoberfest is in the books! The weekend of Rocktoberfest was a pristine one in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, and climbers from all over the world turned out in droves to celebrate climbing in the Red – and to support the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition!
The fun kicked off on Friday night, when the vendors opened up their booths and the attendees started mingling, taking in the sights and trying their hands at some fun competitions, like the pull up competition and the always-popular crate stacking. Later in the evening, everyone gathered under the big tent for this year’s choice of movies – an independent film by Mike Wilkinson, Ascending India, that touched on climbing in the Red, followed by the new Reel Rock.
Saturday morning things started early, with a yoga session under the big tent led by Danielle Bartos and a shoe demo with Five Ten, TENAYA, La Sportiva, SCARPA and Evolv happening at Miguel’s, after which everyone headed out to climb. Some of those climbers made their way to the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve to participate in the annual Clip ‘n’ Go competition, clipping as many bolts as they could before the day ended in the hopes of winning some awesome prizes while raising money for the RRGCC!
Back at the event on Saturday night, the crowd was even bigger than the night before. Everyone listened to RRGCC President Josephine Sterr’s plans for the future, including the announcement that anyone who signs up to donate at least $10/month is automatically entered to win a brand new rope or other prizes at the Red River Reunion in the spring! We also got to introduce and publicly thank Mr. Bernard Benningfield of ATS Construction, who has been helping us keep our roads in shape despite a year full of rain! Then, the winners from the Clip ‘n’ Go competition were announced*. For the first time ever, the top three winners of each category had medals draped around their necks, courtesy of the KY Board of Adventure Tourism. This year, the RRGCC teamed up with board and made the climbing competition a part of the KY Outdoor Adventure Games.
Following the presentation, the crowd danced to the music of the Flea Market Hustlers until the wee hours of the morning and were rewarded with complimentary pizza by Miguel’s at 11 pm.
Sunday morning, the Solid Rock Climbers for Christ were up bright and early to start cooking a pancake breakfast for the hungry festival-goers. Then, those participating in our various clinics gathered to meet their instructors and headed out to expand their climbing knowledge! Meanwhile, our awesome clean-up volunteers helped pack up and make sure we packed everything out.
And with that, another successful Rocktoberfest came to a close. We couldn’t have done it without YOU- the people who make owning over 1,000 acres of land possible and who create the best climbing community in the world! We also want to give a big shout-out to our sponsors, who make putting on a party of this size possible-
Outdoor Research, Access Fun, BlueWater Ropes, Petzl, Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Powell County Tourism, Climbing Magazine, Sterling Ropes, Patagonia, Marmot, Goal Zero, Scarpa, Belay Specs, Five Ten, Quest Outdoors, Moosejaw, Mountain Gear, Misty Mountain, Evolv, Keen, Trango, Metolius, Rab, Joshua Tree Skin Care, Miguel’s Pizza, Red River Rockhouse, Ale8One, J&H Outdoors, Tenaya, Red Bull, Eno, So ILL, Krieg Climbing, Ahnu, Hoka One One, Trader Joe’s, L’Escalade Fitness, Daniel Boone Trading Post, E9 Climbing, Armaid, Red River Outdoors, The North Face, Fox Mountain Guides, Driskell Home Repair, The Power Company, Bluegrass Bouldering, The Warrior’s Way, MtnRanks
- Colombian People
- Sea and Stone
- Emmalee Orlett
- Susie Semler
- Robin Snader
- Ben Murphy
- James Campbell
- Jillian Weller
- Sarah Brengosz
- Lena Moinova
- John Chipouras
- Ben Circello
3. Henry Robinson
Another hot and steamy summer in the Red River Gorge means another Johnny and Alex Trail Day is in the books! On Saturday, July 25, nearly 150 volunteers gathered to help maintain the land they love- and own.
After signing in, grabbing their lunches provided by Miguel’s and a brief meeting at Lago Linda’s Hideaway, the volunteers split into groups to tackle the many jobs that needed to be worked on in the PMRP and MFRP. With over 1,000 acres of land between the two areas, there’s a lot of maintenance to be done and new trails to be cut. Luckily, we have the best climbing community in the world, and our volunteers are top-notch!
In the PMRP, the work that was begun on The Shire a few months ago continued as volunteers built terraces to create a more stable base and belay area. Around the corner, a bridge to Amarillo Sunset was put in place, as was the framework for a staircase down to the belay ledge for the popular route. The improvements to The Shire were made possible by Trango- many thanks to them for help making this popular crag more sustainable!
The Flat Holler mountain bike trail was also expanded. A small army of volunteers attacked the brush and carved out more trail, which will eventually be opened to mountain bikers and allow more people to enjoy our beautiful land via human-powered recreation.
Over in the MFRP, the bulk of the work took place on the main trail. A trail was completed on the east side of the trail to the Serenity Point turnoff, allowing climbers to stay out of the mud on the main road. On the west side of the main trail, a new bridge was installed over the main creek crossing, along with a wet soil crossing bridge. In addition, the trail to Chaos Wall was re-routed and cut.
After the hard work was done, it was time to head back to Lago Linda’s for dinner and a party. The tired volunteers gathered under the pavilion and were revitalized by food from the Red River Rockhouse. Then the Bobby Maynard & Breakdown band took over and the dancing began, interrupted only by a raffle, where a great deal of prizes were won, with the proceeds going to the RRGCC! The band played well into the night as friends, old and new, hung out and enjoyed the beauty of the Red River Gorge.
Johnny and Alex Trail Day is one of the RRGCC’s most popular events and it’s clear why- hard work on the land for climbers, owned by climbers, followed by a great party! None of it would be possible without our sponsors, and we want to give them all a huge shoutout. So thanks to- Lago Linda Hideaway, Elodie Saracco Photographic, Rockquest, Climb NuLu, Gordon Food Service, Outdoor Research, West Sixth Brewery, BlueWater Ropes, L’Escalade Fitness, J&H Outfitters, Black Diamond, Trango, Bluegrass Bouldering, Miguel’s Pizza, Red River Rockhouse, the Access Fund, Driskell Home Repair, Red River Outdoors, MtnRanks, Dirtbag Climbers, and Restop.
We’d also like to thank the owners of Roadside, who donated all their donations from climbers on Sunday to the RRGCC to help offset the costs of Johnny and Alex Trail Day.
If you couldn’t be part of the fun, we can always use your help with the financial aspect of keeping up over 1,000 acres- donate here! http://rrgcc.org/donate/
Indian Creek Road 9B will be gated closed to vehicles until sometime in the fall due to a stream restoration project. A temporary gate will be installed at the start of 9B (right after you cross bridge). This gate may be installed as early as this week. Road 9 and 9A will remain open this year. Visitors will not be allowed to drive down 9B but can walk the road using caution to avoid construction zones. Hopefully all work will be completed sometime this fall and the temporary gate removed. At that time, a new gate will be installed 0.9 miles down from the current end of 9B (at the location of former concrete dam).
Another Rocktoberfest has come and gone, and this year has proven once again that we have the best climbing community around! Despite the not-so-great forecast, the rain and the mud (so much mud), hundreds of you came from all over the continent to hang out with friends, check out the awesome vendors , climb and give money to support the RRGCC and the land you own!
We are extremely proud and excited to announce that all of your donations helped us raise over $20,000 towards our goal of the $35,000 required to match the Conservation Alliance 2014 Grant! This brings us so many steps closer to paying off the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, and we are so grateful that despite the unfavorable weather conditions, you all stepped up and made this happen.
On Friday, attendees ventured from tent to tent, entering raffles (with all proceeds supporting the RRGCC!), grabbing freebies and checking out the latest gear from the vendors. Later in the night, everyone gathered under the main tent and watched the Reel Rock 2014, Valley Uprising. As always, the film was a hit and became the talk of the night. Special thanks to William Keenan (“Uncle Dave”) for doing the sound. After the movie, DJ Carlos Atman kept the party going for a couple more hours for a crowd of energetic dancers.
On Saturday, after a morning yoga session with Danielle Bartos, the rain gods smiled on us and the weather cleared up enough for us to proceed with the Black Diamond sponsored Clip-n-Go comp, held for the first time at Miller Fork so the competitors could sample the routes their donations are helping to secure. Congrats to the winners listed below- give ‘em a high-five (and maybe ask for some training tips) if you see them!
1. Anna Fahey
1. Nathan Ross
2. Steven Lee
3. James Hanson
1. Lindsay Auble
2. Sarah Brengosz
3. Hayley Watts
1. Jon Shen
2. Dan Beck
3. Ben Circello
1. Dirty Nuts
2. Blue Poo
1. Guiding Light
2. Team Guido
3. Lost in Transgressions
While the competitors (and many others) were out enjoying the climbing day, Andrew and Hannah Tolliver spent their time improving the land, installing an awesome sign welcoming visitors to the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve. They deserve a huge pat on the back for their efforts.
The party continued Saturday night, and thanks to extra volunteers the always popular crate stacking was able to get underway despite the rain. The winners, stacking 24 crates each, were Brett Dougan and Synda Clements. Our event this year even gained the attention of the Pendergrass and Murray families – James Paul, Robin, David, and Karen (all cousins and all descendants of Daniel Boone Carter Pendergrass) stopped by Saturday evening to check out the festivities. (If those last names sound familiar, it’s because Mr. James Paul Murray is the gentleman who sold the PMRP to the RRGCC all those years ago!)
Then everyone moved back under the tent to dance to the music of the Mike Creech Band. The party continued late into the night, but since this community is so great, lots of volunteers still managed to emerge from their tents early in the morning. After re-fueling with breakfast provided by the Solid Rock Climbers for Christ, they helped clean up the venue. Our pro athletes (Regan Kennedy and Josh Muller, Karsten Delap, Margarita Martinez, Chuck Odette and Maggie Smith-Odette, Shingo Ohkawa, Brittany Griffith, and Nick Duttle and Dan Mirsky) taught the clinic registrants some new tricks while the weather granted them a rain-free day, closing the books on another successful Rocktoberfest!
Throughout it all, Rae Hartley oversaw the army of volunteers, arriving at the venue early and staying late; our emcee Kris “Odub” Hampton made sure every sponsor got shouted out and every event got announced; and our incredibly talented event photographer, Elodie Saracco, captured each moment (check out her albums, shared on our Facebook page).
We’d also like to give a special shout-out to our amazing sponsors- we couldn’t do this every year without them! So, a big round of applause for…
Our Rocktoberfest Sponsors
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition is proud to announce that we have been awarded a $35,000 grant from the Conservation Alliance! The grant will be used to repay part of the $200,000 Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan that the RRGCC used to purchase the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve in 2013.
The Conservation Alliance requires that grantees be nominated by member organizations. We are truly grateful to Petzl for nominating us to apply for this grant!
The MFRP is a 2 1/4 mile-long canyon currently being developed for rock climbing access. The land is open to climbing and the RRGCC is actively involved in developing trails and other infrastructure at the Preserve.
The RRGCC is honored the Conservation Alliance chose to support us in our mission to purchase the MFRP. This grant furthers their mission of “engag[ing] businesses to fund and partner with organizations to protect wild places for their habitat and recreation values.”
In return for receiving the grant the RRGCC has pledged to raise $35,000 in individual matching donations by March 2015. The goal of the RRGCC’s Miller Fork Recreational Preserve Acquisition Campaign is to use the matching donations to accelerate the payoff of the Access Fund loan. To make that happen, we need YOUR help!
When visiting the RRGCC’s website, you will notice a new feature on our home page – a thermometer showing how close we are to reaching our goal of raising $35,000 by March 2015. Help the thermometer tick up by adding your own donation! Remember- if we own it, they can’t close it!
The RRGCC Board of Directors held its yearly Strategic Planning meeting at Torrent Falls on Saturday, January 11th, 2014. Among the topics discussed were:
- Grant opportunities and applications for 2014
- Potentially hiring an accountant starting 2015 to handle RRGCC funds and filing the 990 each year
- The status of the RRGCC Memorandum of Understanding with the US Forest Service
- Officer re-elections (positions reflected on the Meet the BOD page)
- Discussion of the newly open BOD member position
- Options for surveys of the RRGCC’s land
- The need for storage space for the RRGCC’s tools and event paraphernalia
- A SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats) analysis
The BOD would love to hear your input on these topics and more. If you’d like to make your voice heard and/or get more involved, please join us at an open meeting at Pine Crest Camp Lodge at 9:00 am on Saturday, March 8th, 2014.
Mike Driskell and Travis Peek, our tireless Land Management staff, have completed work on the Flat Holler Parking Lot, made possible by the American Alpine Club’s Cornerstone Conservation Grant.
This should alleviate the burden on the Motherlode parking areas, and keep cars from lining up along Bald Rock Road.
Please begin using the Flat Holler Parking Lot if you are planning to climb at Sore Heel and aren’t sure that your car will make it up and down the 4WD hills to the Sore Heel Parking Lot. The map below illustrates the locations of these areas.
The RRGCC is pleased to announce that Rocktoberfest 2013 was our most successful event yet, and it’s all thanks to you! The weekend of Oct 11-13 marked the RRGCC’s annual Rocktoberfest, and nearly 1,000 people from all over the map joined us to climb, arm-wrestle, crate-stack, win swag, hang out with vendors, and raise money for the RRGCC!
Based on the money raised during Rocktoberfest, we will be able to pay the first year’s mortgage payment for our latest acquisition, the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP). In addition, we will be able to continue to improve existing and new trail and parking infrastructure.
The RRGCC was also excited to announce that we are one of the recipients of the American Alpine Club’s 2013 Cornerstone Conservation Grant. The AAC will award the RRGCC $5,500 to improve the infrastructure of your land, including roads, parking areas and approach trails.
Of course, we had lots of fun raising all that money! There were raffles and competitions and lucky attendees walked away loaded with swag. The winners of Black Diamond’s 2013 Clip ‘n’ Go Comp were Adam Taylor with 559 points and Sarah Brengosz with 179 points. Team “Individual” won the team competition with 1012 points. Prizes were provided by Black Diamond and Sterling Rope. The winners of crate stacking, sponsored by Bluegrass Bouldering and J & H Lanmark, were Matt Owen with 22 crates and Jen Metalko with 21 crates.
Keeping the crowd entertained throughout the night were Kris Hampton, who emceed the event, the Mike Creech Band, who made Rocktoberfest a true Kentucky celebration by providing some home-grown bluegrass music, and Miguel’s Pizza, who gave attendees a second wind by providing pizzas as a late-night snack. We’d also like to thank Elodie Saracco of Elodie Saracco PhotoGraphic for documenting the event.
Last but certainly not least, the RRGCC would like to give a special shout-out to all the volunteers who made this event possible, and to our wonderful sponsors: Outdoor Research, Black Diamond, Petzl, Patagonia, Marmot, Keen, Sportiva, BlueWater, Scarpa, Belay Specs, 5.10, Quest Outdoors, Moose Jaw, Mountain Gear, Evolv, Trango, Metolius, Ale8One, Sterling Ropes, Benchmark Outfitters, J&H Lanmark, Bluegrass Bouldering, The North Face, SoIll, Tenaya, Miguel’s Pizza, Red River Outdoors, The Power Company, Fox Mountain Guides, Driskell Home Repair, Whole Foods, Warrior’s Way and MtnRanks.
Check out a photo essay of the event here!
At this year’s Rocktoberfest, come out and climb at the Clip and Go Climbing Competition sponsored by Black Diamond!
Why, you say? Well…
1. You’re climbing on the property that you own (it’s why we do this Rocktoberfest thing!)
2. It’s cheap (only $15 dollars!)
3. Great prizes from Black Diamond (draws, cams, lights)
4. It’s at the Sore Heel climbing areas (tons of classic routes)
5. It’s fun for you and easy for us ($14.83 of your entry fee goes to pay for the property)
6. It’s all about endurance (check out the rules below)
7. It’s an all day climbing thing… (starts at 10:00 and finishes at 5:00)
8. … and you still won’t miss any of the events Saturday night
9. If you are a guy, girls dig competitors
10. If you are a girl, guys dig competitors
11. Sore Heel is the place to climb on Saturday. Since competitors get priority when it comes to the parking lot, there will be significantly fewer people there.
12. There are plenty of divisions, so there are more ways to win.
Individuals: Habanero and Jalapeno
Teams: Bourbon and Beer
Score sheets may be purchased at the Rocktoberfest registration area or at Sore Heel
Points are gathered by clipping bolts on redpoint. Competitors get 1 point for each bolt clipped until you weight the rope (finish the route, fall, or take)
All routes have a multiplier
More difficult routes have a higher multiplier
Score is points times the multiplier
Traditional routes have a fixed number of points
Belayers sign the card
Start time is 10 am in the Sore Heel parking lot
Finish time is 5 pm <<
Competitors total their own score cards <
There are no errors with the score sheet. If the score sheet is wrong, the score sheet is right.
Winners will get their moment of glory at the event Saturday night.
Example of the scoring:
Citizen’s Arete: 1st attempt: 6 bolts x 2 = 12 pts; 2nd attempt: 8 bolts x 2 = 16 pts (score = 16 points; you can try as many times as you want, but only the high point counts)
Sport climbing? It doesn’t matter if the gear is hanging. Gear climbing? Place ’em yourself.
Note that access to the parking area will be limited to competitors on the day of the comp. However, the climbing areas will still be open to all. If you choose to climb at the Sore Heel climbing areas and not compete, please park in another area (i.e. Bald Rock Road, the Motherlode parking area, the Drive By parking area) and walk in.