- PMRP Home
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More than just a mysterious acronym, the PMRP (which actually stands for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve) is a 750-acre commitment to preserving climbing access indefinitely.
With access becoming increasingly threatened through the 1990s, the Coalition formed with the intent of doing what it took to permanently secure access to climbing in the Red River Gorge region. However, being on the East Coast, most of the climbing opportunities were available only on private property or Forest Service land. In 1996, the USFS enacted a bolting ban on its land, effectively ending the development of sport climbing in those areas. While working with the Forest Service to improve relations and explore the options, the Coalition was also working with private landowners to secure access to climbing and development. This proved, however, to be a touchy situation. As climbing increased in popularity, relations grew increasingly tense with landowners and their wishes to maintain their privacy and independence.
Early in this decade, with a little exploration, the potential for development, particularly sport climbing, was discovered in the Southern Region. The presence of oil companies in the area did not go unnoticed. As can be expected, when word spread about the quality of climbing along Bald Fork Road, conflicts arose between climbers and the oil companies. In particular, parking and road access occasionally became flash points for tense exchanges.
In 2004, when more than 700-acres* of prime climbing land came available to the market, the RRGCC moved quickly to seize the opportunity to secure access. Negotiating with the Murray family, the Coalition and the Murray's settled on a value of $325 per acre for the 700-acres of deeded land. To finance the purchase, the RRGCC worked out a owner-financed mortage of 8% a year for 10 years. With a few maintaince costs, the final yearly costs translate to nearly $30,000 per year (for a more detailed look, check out the PMRP Financials ta).
*Note - It wasn't until after the purchase that it was determined that actually 750-acres were deeded.
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So What?!
Ok.. great. So what does this mean for you as a climber? Well, the easiest and most obvious answer is access. Access forever.
The longer, more involved answer is a bit more idealistic. By purchasing this land, the RRGCC is setting a precedent and is changing the way we have to think about access and the role they take in caring for and protecting it. Our access, like our climbing, is in our own hands.
And as fresh reminders of the need and gravity of this project, one needs look only as far as Pocket Wall, the Arena, Oil Crack Wall, portions of Military, Western Sky Bridge Ridge, Hen's Nest, and, most recently, Torrent Falls.
Losing crags hurts because it means letting go of more than just routes. It means losing the chance to challenge ourselves, the chance to spend a weekend with friends, the chance to make memories that will last for years. It means losing climbing.
We love climbing.
Protect what you love.
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Maps of the region.
Click on them to view/save an 8.5"x11" PDF.
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Google Map of the RRG
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Bald Rock Fork Map
(Last updated 06/01/07)
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Coal Bank Hollow Map
(Last updated 06/01/07)
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The PMRP offers year-round climbing thanks to dozens of clifflines that face nearly every
direction and steepness that caters to all tastes. The hardest decision of the day often isn't
whether to go for the redpoint or not but rather which crags to hit that day.
With the PMRP as large as it is and being broken up into two main swaths of land, getting to know
the terminology is, to say the least, helpful.
The northern section (see the PMRP Maps page for a more detailed look)
is called the Coal Bank Hollow. It has the Far Side, Dark Side, Solar Collector, and Gold Coast.
The southern and larger portion of the PMRP is Bald Rock Hollow. Bald Rock has Drive-By, Chica Bonita,
and Bob Marley Crags as well as the Sore Heel Hollar. Sore Heel is further broken up into several walls:
the Gallery, Volunteer Wall, Left Field, Playground, Shady Grove, Bronaugh Wall, Purgatory, North 40,
Shire, Rival Wall, Courtesy Wall, and What About Bob Wall.
All in all, it's over 350 sport, trad, and mixed routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14c. And that's just
the beginning. Routes are in a constant state of development with much of the PMRP yet to be fully
realized.
Below is a brief description of each wall. Click on the route name for a more detailed description
and a list of routes from Ray Ellington's Online Guidebook.
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Coal Bank Hollow
Coal Bank Hollow
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Far Side |
Routes range from pumpy 5.10 to powerful 5.13s. Usually pretty shade and overhung enought to stay dry.
Don't miss Papa Loves Jugs for a local favorite. |
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Dark Side |
Several RRG test-piece routes with a more than a half dozen classic 5.13 routes. Also has several
classic 5.12 routes. This wall is a site to see and is famously intimitading: the first thing you'll
see when you arive is a huge wave of a wall with thousands of iron pockets. Dry and cool, this wall
is sure to pique a your interest and have you begging for more. |
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Solar Collector |
Like its name suggests, this wall definitely sees strong morning sun and is a good start to a cold day.
Usually, though, the sun disappears over the cliffs in the afternoon and is still comfortable in the heat
of the summer. Several routes from hard 5.10d to 5.12c. In a light rain, you'll be dry but if it starts
to pour, expect the water to run down the top of the wall and get your anchor jugs wet. |
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Gold Coast |
This might be one of the most picturesque walls in the country. Streaked bright orange, gold, and black,
this wall will catch your eye and test your power. Gently overhung with holds just big enough, this wall
harbors several hard 5.13 routes and a couple 5.14, not to mention a few lines waiting for their FA.
Gold Coast sees afternoon sun and usually stays dry is almost any condition. |
Bald Rock Fork
Bald Rock Fork
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Drive-By Crag |
Routes from pumpy 5.10 to powerful 5.13s and The Nothing, a 14a. See morning shade and afternoon sun. When it's raining, several
of the routes stay dry except for the anchors. |
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Bob Marley Crag |
A beautiful wall with that will open your eyes to pocketed roof climbing. Most of the routes here are 5.11 of above with several routes
above 5.12 and even an open project or two. The roof area stays cool and very dry. |
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Chica Bonita |
A relatively new wall with all of the climbs established in 2005 or after. A bit of a hike to get here but it's well worth it: high
quality trad climbing as well as very technical faces. Most of the routes here don't stay dry and, since it avoid the sun most of the day,
it's a pretty good summer option. |
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Sore Heel Hollar |
With more than a dozen crags all within a short walk of each other, it's hard to capture the essence of all of them in a single web page.
A visitor could spend weeks in this region alone visiting each of the destinations. More than a hundred climbs are in this hollar and
vary from casual as cake sport routes to adventure trad to test-pieces of the east. Essentially a full service destination, there's a crag
for every desire: overhung and dry, cool and technical, pumpfests and bouldery puzzles, it's bound to be here. For a more complete description
of each crag, click on the link that will take you to the Southern Region of Ray Ellington's Online Guide. Crags in the Sore Heel Hollar are:
- Curbside
- The Gallery
- Volunteer Wall
- Private Playground
- Shady Grove
- Bronaugh Wall
- Purgatory
- North 40
- The Shire
- Rival Wall
- Courtesy Wall
- What About Bob Wall
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Parking
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In February 2004 the RRGCC obtained a Temporary Restraining Order that prevents Charmane from towing
climbers’ cars from the PMRP. In the interest of respecting Charmane’s right to access their oil wells,
the RRGCC has established designated parking areas on the PMRP. When visiting the PMRP you are asked
to please follow posted signs, park in designated parking areas, and not block or interfere with
Charmane’s right to access their oil wells.
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Directions
To Coal Bank Hollow:
From Ray Ellington's Guidebook:
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass
Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that
road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you)
until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the
oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a
steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the RRGCC kiosk.
To Bald Rock Fork:
From Ray Ellington's Guidebook:
Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area
toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond
this curve take a sharp right on an unmarked gravel road. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles straight
through an intersection, past some houses with dogs, down a steep hill, alongside a small cliff
on your left, to a clearing at the bottom. Park on your right in the Motherlode parking area or
continue by turning right on the first gravel road .3 miles past the Motherlode parking area.
There is a Sore Heel Parking, sign located at the turn off pointing the way. Follow the gravel
road up the hill past a row of large bright blue storage tanks, make a sharp right-hand turn
(.2 mile after turn off), follow the main gravel road for another mile before following the road
down a short hill to the new parking area at the bottom of the hill on the right. Look for new
trailhead signs pointing to the climbing areas along a (freshly cleared) dirt road leading up a
hill from the parking area
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The freedom to pursue free climbing isn't free. In fact, it's financed annually.
On July 15 every year until 2013, a payment of more than $29k is due.
Raising money to finance this historic purchase is the main focus of the RRGCC. Nearly every dollar
raised, whether through memberships, donations, sales, or events, goes towards making this annual
payment.
Below is a breakdown of the financials for the PMRP.
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Financial Summary
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- $325 per acre
- 700 acres on the deed
- Total purchase price: $227,500
- Owner financed at 8% - not mortgaged through a bank
- Annual payments are due July 15th
- Payments from July 2004 through July 2009 are $29,383
- Payments from July 2010 through July 2013 are $29,385
- Final payment scheduled July 15, 2013
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Countdown to Ownership
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Principal owed after the 2007 payment is approximately $135,857.
- 2008 - $117,333
- 2009 - $97,326
- 2010 - $75,728
- 2011 - $52,401
- 2012 - $27,208
- 2013 – It's Ours!!!
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