The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition Restores Climbing Access to Oil Crack & Arena Crags After 22 Years of Closure
Photos by Mike Wilkinson of Wilkinson Visual.
A Long-Awaited Homecoming for the Climbing Community
After more than two decades of negotiation, relationship building, and persistence, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) is proud to announce the return of climbing access to two classic crags, Oil Crack and Arena. These crags boast over 80 routes, a majority of which are of exceptional quality, ranging from 5.8 to 5.14c. These routes offer the same excellent rock quality found at nearby PMRP crags.
A Complex History of Access
For many climbers, Oil Crack and Arena are more than just crags – they are foundational pieces of Red River Gorge climbing history that were lost 22 years ago. Located just around the corner from renowned crags Drive-By and Bob Marley, these stunning walls were first developed during a time of rapid expansion in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Oil Crack and Arena quickly became home to many classic routes.
As development in the Red surged, so did the need for climbing access advocacy. Thus the RRGCC was formed by local climbers in 1996. By 2004, the RRGCC had finalized the purchase of its first major property, the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP). “When we acquired the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition’s flagship property in 2004, we believed Oil Crack and Arena were part of that purchase. It was only afterward that we learned the situation was far more complex, involving multiple heirs and competing interests that ultimately led to the loss of access.” – Shannon Stuart-Smith, Founder of the RRGCC
By April 2004, access was lost. “No Climbing” and “No Trespassing” signs were strewn about the cliffline, beginning what would become a decades-long effort to regain access. “What makes this moment so meaningful is not just that access has returned, but that it reflects decades of persistence, learning, and relationship-building. This outcome shows what is possible when a community stays committed over the long arc—adapting, staying at the table, and never fully letting go of what matters. That this agreement came together in the coalition’s 30th anniversary year feels especially fitting.” – Shannon Stuart-Smith, Founder of the RRGCC
Decades of Effort, Setbacks, and Persistence
The path to reopening was anything but straightforward. Prior to 2013, Paul Vidal, then-RRGCC President, began what eventually snowballed into the access win that we have today: relationship building. These early connections are what laid the foundation for Paul to begin earnest conversations regarding climbing access starting in 2013. Early discussions explored creative solutions that showed promise but ultimately reached dead ends. A lease agreement drafted in 2016 advanced negotiations but later stalled as circumstances changed.
In 2019, momentum returned when Jereme Ransick, Former Board Member and Access & Acquisitions Co-Chair, revisited the lease approach, but progress was again interrupted by corporate restructuring and changes in land ownership. Despite strong relationships and mutual goodwill, access again proved elusive. Throughout these set-backs, one constant remained: the Coalition’s commitment to respectful, long-term engagement.
“This win, though it will require care and consistent investment, should give us all resolve to continue our efforts. We may not always see, or even enjoy, the fruits of our labors, but this is tangible evidence that our positive, community-focused work can and will be successful over time. I know I’ll be celebrating this win for those no longer with us and for those climbers that now, for the first time, get to experience the joy of these special places.” – Paul Vidal, Former President of the RRGCC
A Breakthrough in Relationship Building
In 2021, RRGCC re-opened dialogue with the newest landowner. Ransick diligently navigated conversations over four years focusing on a permanent access solution. Yet again, corporate ownership changes paused momentum.
Finally, ownership changed hands once more. Fortunately for the RRGCC, this latest landowner, Lori Morel, was willing to continue the dialog with mutual understanding and a shared desire to be good neighbors. While permanent access and acquisition options were explored, the lease strategy again became the obvious path given the landowners’ needs.
The result is a carefully structured agreement, signed in early 2026, which restores climbing access while respecting the working landscape on which these crags exist. This lease is designed to be renewed on a continual basis every three years. “Maintaining momentum on access to closed crags can be difficult, especially with repeated starts and stops. Progress may feel stalled as time and resources are invested, but situations can shift unexpectedly—like when a new landowner recently reached out to learn about the RRGCC with an open mind.” – Jereme Ransick, Co-Chair Access & Acquisitions Committee
This Is Where You Come In
Securing access is only the beginning. Before reopening, these crags require significant stewardship work, including trail development, belay area stabilization, brush clearing, and rockwork. The RRGCC has set ambitious goals for opening by fall 2026, but we need community support to meet that deadline.
To fund this effort, the RRGCC is launching a grassroots campaign with a goal of $60,000. Our friends and long-time supporters, Black Diamond, BlueWater Ropes, and The North Face have contributed over $8,500 in donation incentives to help jumpstart the fundraiser!
“We love the Red. As the modern heart of American sport climbing, the Red has turned into a global destination and vital economic engine for rural Kentucky. In turn, there’s a mountain of responsibility that rests on the RRGCC shoulders to maintain good standing with local landowners and land managers. As we all know, money makes the world go round, or at least it’s easier to get things done when you have it, so open up those pocket books and help the RRGCC fulfill their mission for this fundraiser and access to Oil Crack and Arena Crags!” – Adam Peters, Director of Sports Marketing
“BlueWater is honored for the opportunity to continue supporting the efforts of the RRGCC. Their hard work positively affects access as well as the experience of climbers who enjoy this destination.” – Scott Newell, President of BlueWater Ropes
Donors at specified levels will be entered to win gear from Black Diamond, BlueWater Ropes, and The North Face. Visit our donation page for all the details! Every contribution supports the invisible ongoing work required to secure and maintain access like this win.
Looking Forward: Access with Intention
As with all privately owned climbing areas, long-term success depends on responsible use. The Coalition is urging climbers to respect landowner guidelines and to help us be good stewards of this access opportunity. The RRGCC will share access details, parking information, and recreational guidelines through official channels in the following weeks and months.
A Community Milestone
The return of Oil Crack and Arena coincides with the RRGCC’s 30th anniversary and reflects its mission of securing and stewarding access through partnership and advocacy. “It’s been incredible to see the Oil Crack & Arena lease come together. Shannon, Paul and Jereme set a high bar for neighborly respect and collaboration with landowners that have very real needs and concerns. To be able to legitimately address those concerns, and to be reciprocated with clean, lasting access agreements speaks to the learning and growth of the Coalition over the years. I’m delighted to see this come through at a time in which we’re reflecting on how far we’ve come and where we’re going.” – Louie Allen, RRGCC Executive Director
The RRGCC wishes to extend its sincere gratitude to all who contributed to this massive effort, namely Jereme Ransick, Lori Morel, Paul Vidal, Shannon Stuart-Smith, Louie Allen, Adam Peters, Scott Newell, Brian Tickle, Daniel Dunn, as well as the broader climbing community who has supported the RRGCC over the last 22 years.
About the RRGCC
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to securing sustainable climbing access in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Since its founding, the organization has purchased and protected over 1,800 acres of climbing lands.
Climbing involves inherent risks. Always use your best judgment before clipping into bolts, particularly on older routes, and carefully assess the condition of hardware before climbing. The FGI will carry out ongoing bolt replacement work before these historic crags are reopened to the public. Please do not climb at these crags prior to that announcement.
Contact:
Tara Taylor, tara@rrgcc.org
Marketing Director, Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition