History of the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition
FEBRUARY 2025
The RRGCC made history in the heart of the Red by purchasing 718 acres of the Ashland WMA – making the largest land acquisition in climbing access history. This acquisition includes the entirely new Cave Fork Recreational Preserve (CFRP), as well as expansions to PMRP and MFRP.
JULY 2024
The RRGCC collaborated with Cliffview Resort and Lodge to obtain a recreational easement unlocking access to over 30 cliff faces and 3.5 miles of cliff line.
JUN 2022
The RRGCC published the Developer MOU and Route Submission form which provides guidelines of bolting best practices as well as documents development on RRGCC property.
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NOV 2021
RRGCC sent the final mortgage check to Access Fund for the BRRP, securing permanent access to the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and more!
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JUL 2021
The RRGCC expanded and improved the Motherlode parking lot and added the second vault toilet to its property to help mitigate climber impact to the environment.
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DEC 2020
With the help of a grant from the Access Fund & Eastern Kentucky University an updated economic impact study was conducted by Dr. Maples & Dr. Bradly which found climbers spend an estimated $8.7 million in the regional economy annually with over 102,000 climber visits per year.
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OCT 2019
The RRGCC signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the USFS formalizing our partnership moving forward as it pertains to improving access, trail projects, natural resource education, and mitigating climber impact.
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OCT 2018
The RRGCC publicly announced the opening of Camelot, a sustainably developed climbing area in the MFRP, boasting an impressive collection of moderate routes.
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MAR 2018
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OCT 2017
The RRGCC paid off the MFRP mortgage!
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SEP 2017
Granted Conservation and Recreation Easements for all RRGCC properties to the Access Fund, guaranteeing climbing in perpetuity.
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DEC 2016
Purchased the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP), securing access to world renowned climbing at the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, Bear's Den, and Unlode.
OCT 2016
The RRGCC received a $2,500 Cornerstone Conservation Grant from the American Alpine Club to help curb erosion, train future land stewards, re-vegetate the forest, and build belay bases at the Gallery.
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MAY 2013
Purchased the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, securing 309 acres for rock climbing.
OCT 2012
The RRGCC paid off the PMRP mortgage!
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JUNE 2010
The RRGCC and Access Fund get together to refinance the remaining mortgage, saving the RRGCC approximately $10k!
JAN 2006
The RRGCC officially obtained 501(c)(3) not-for-profit status from the IRS, gaining tax exemption.
APR 2004
The United States Forest Service banned bolting in the Red River Gorge geological area located within Daniel Boone National Forest.
MAR 2004
RRGCC formally renamed the Murray property the "Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve," or the PMRP.
FEB 2004
The RRGCC obtained a temporary restraining order against Charmane Oil Co. compelling them to stop blocking access and towing cars.
JAN 2004
The RRGCC made climbing history on January 20, 2004 through the purchase of 750 acres from Mattie Murray, securing one of the largest climber owned properties in the country!
OCT 2003
Charmane Oil Co. blocked climber access to Murray property, towing cars for an extenuating time.
SEP 2002
The RRGCC obtained an option to purchase the Murray property on September 25, 2002.
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FEB 2000
The RRGCC and US Forest Service signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) on February 7, 2000.
1998
RRGCC President, Hugh Loeffler, obtained express permission for climbing on the Murray property.
1996
The RRGCC is formed in response to USFS "Climbing Management Guide" to negotiate lifting the bolting moratorium.
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1994
Southern exposure: climbers establish first sport climbing routes in the "Southern Region."
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1969
The first known trad routes in the Red were established by Ron Stokley, Dieter Britz, and Bob Stokes.
1963
Mattie Murray inherits the D.B. Pendergrass property.
1950s-60s
The first known climbing in the Red River Gorge was said to be at Caver's Route, used by spelunkers training caving technique.
1908
Tracts of Land: Daniel Boone Pendergrass purchases two tracts of land in Lee County, Kentucky, one along Bald Rock Fork and one in Coal Bank Hollow. These lands are now the PMRP.
Grants Won Throughout the Years by the RRGCC
February 2025: Awarded $500,000 by the James Graham Brown Foundation
The James Graham Brown Foundation cultivates progress and civic pride through philanthropic investments that promote the image of Kentucky and Louisville and the well‐being of its citizens. This generous contribution highlights JGBF’s commitment to supporting transformative initiatives, and RRGCC is deeply grateful for the foundation’s partnership in advancing this critical effort.
These grant funds went toward the historic purchase of 718 acres of the Ashland WMA in 2025.
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January 2024: Awarded $600,000 by the USDA USFS Community Forest and Open Space Conservation Program
The Community Forest and Open Space Conservation Program (Community Forest Program) of the Forest Service offers a unique opportunity for communities to acquire and conserve forests that provide public access and recreational opportunities, protect vital water supplies and wildlife habitat, serve as demonstration sites for private forest landowners, and provide economic benefits from timber and non-timber products.
These grant funds went toward the historic purchase of 718 acres of the Ashland WMA in 2025.
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2023: Awarded $350,000 from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Kentucky Field Office
The Imperiled Bat Conservation Fund (IBCF) is a bat and forest conservation partnership between the Kentucky Natural Lands Trust and the Service’s Kentucky Field Office that has helped nearly 20 conservation partners acquire and conserve over 40,000 acres of conservation land in Kentucky.The IBCF is a multi-faceted fund that uses a combination of grant, mitigation, and federal discretionary funding to focus resources on bat, forest, and at-risk terrestrial species conservation in Kentucky.
These grant funds went toward the historic purchase of 718 acres of the Ashland WMA in 2025.
"The Fish and Wildlife Service is happy to support the RRGCC's land acquisition efforts in Lee County by providing a portion of the acquisition costs for the property through the Service's partnership with the Kentucky Natural Lands Trust. The property that RRGCC purchased will support greater outdoor recreation opportunities for the climbing community, and it will help conserve some very important and resilient habitat for fish and wildlife. In particular, we are happy that they purchased the land that surrounds a portion of Hell Creek that contains the federally-threatened Kentucky arrow darter (Etheostoma spilotum) and designated critical habitat for the species. This species only occurs in the upper Kentucky River watershed and its populations are disconnected from each other, making protection of each population very important."
–Lee Andrews, Field Supervisor
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
Kentucky Field Office
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April 2022: Awarded $805 from Access Fund's JEDI Grant
Access Fund's Justice, Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion (JEDI) grant is designed to promote and actuate JEDI principles related to access and stewardship within climbing and remove barriers to participation. Awardees will undertake projects that address physical, social, and cultural barriers to sustainable climbing access with an emphasis on work that incorporates elements of education or advocacy around sustainable access, conservation, and stewardship.
These grant funds were used to increase accessibility to Chica Bonita, Drive-By, and Bob Marley.
August 2021: Awarded $3500 from Access Fund Climbing Conservation Grant Program
Access Fund’s Climbing Conservation Grant Program funds projects that preserve or enhance climbing access and opportunities and conserve the climbing environment throughout the US.
These grant funds were used to do major repairs to Fixer Road, the road that provides access to Coal Bank (PMRP).
2021: Awarded $3500 from Access Fund's Climbing Education Video Grant
Access Fund’s Climbing Conservation Grant Program funds projects that preserve or enhance climbing access and opportunities and conserve the climbing environment throughout the US. This grant was awarded with the purpose of creating new media with the goal of guiding climbers to make the transition from the gym to the crag.
These grant funds were put toward the production of this "Gym to Crag" video.
2021: Awarded $10,000 from Athletic Brewing Two for the Trails
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2021: Awarded $9,000 from COVID-19 Targeted EIDL Advance
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2020: Awarded $1,000 from SBA Emergency Injury Disaster Loan
The Small Business Administration's (SBA) Economic Injury Disaster Loan (EIDL) helps small businesses recover from revenue losses due to disasters. The loan can be used to cover payroll, accounts payable, and other bills.
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2020: Awarded $4,000 from the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Conservation Grant
The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant, powered by REI, formally launched in 2011 with the goal of funding projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources across the country.
These grant funds were used to build infrastructure to make access to Hazel Hollow sustainable.
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2019: Awarded $2000 from Access Fund Climbing Conservation Grant Program
Access Fund’s Climbing Conservation Grant Program funds projects that preserve or enhance climbing access and opportunities and conserve the climbing environment throughout the US.
These grant funds were used toward Dr. James Maples' Economic Impact Study of rock climbing in the Red River Gorge.
2017: Awarded $40,000 from the Conservation Alliance Winter Grant Cycle
Since 1989, The Conservation Alliance has leveraged more than $33.5 million to 318 organizations through grantmaking and conservation projects in support of wild places and outdoor spaces that make our communities stronger, support local economies, and remove barriers to people getting outside. All of which contribute to a healthy, liveable planet.
These grant funds were used toward purchasing the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP), which includes the world-renowned Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, Bear's Den, and a handful of other crags.
2016: Awarded $2,500 from the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Grant
Access Fund’s Climbing Conservation Grant Program funds projects that preserve or enhance climbing access and opportunities and conserve the climbing environment throughout the US.
These grant funds were used toward the "Reframing the Gallery" project. The goal of this project was to rehabilitate the moderate section of the Gallery with natural materials to create user friendly belay bases and replant the forest below the crag.
2016: Awarded $2,500 from the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Conservation Grant
The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant, powered by REI, formally launched in 2011 with the goal of funding projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources across the country.
These grant funds were used toward the "Reframing the Gallery" project. The goal of this project was to rehabilitate the moderate section of the Gallery with natural materials to create user friendly belay bases and replant the forest below the crag.
2015: Awarded $25,000 from The Arches Foundation
The Arches Foundation was established in 2003 in Colorado with the purpose of giving to organizations that are dedicated to preserving natural resources and promoting arts, education, and civil rights.
These grant funds were used toward vault toilet construction & operations.
2014: Awarded $35,000 from the Conservation Alliance Winter Grant Cycle
Since 1989, The Conservation Alliance has leveraged more than $33.5 million to 318 organizations through grantmaking and conservation projects in support of wild places and outdoor spaces that make our communities stronger, support local economies, and remove barriers to people getting outside. All of which contribute to a healthy, liveable planet.
These grant funds were used toward purchasing the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP), which includes The Infirmary, Fruit Wall, Secret Garden, and many other high quality crags.
2013: Awarded $5,500 from the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Conservation Grant
The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant, powered by REI, formally launched in 2011 with the goal of funding projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources across the country.
These grant funds were used toward improving existing roads and building new parking areas and approach trails that would lessen the 2WD traffic on the 4WD roads by giving climbers more parking options.
