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MEMORANDUM OF UNDERSTANDING

BETWEEN

RED RIVER GORGE CLIMBERS’ COALITION, INC.

AND DEVELOPER

FOR ROUTE DEVELOPMENT ON RRGCC PROPERTIES

Thank you for your interest in installing bolts or permanent anchors to be used for rock climbing on RRGCC-owned land. The RRGCC recognizes that as a potential developer you are making a personal and financial contribution, which we appreciate. You will also be establishing a route that others will undoubtedly use and enjoy, and with it adding more impacts from climbing to the environment.  

The RRGCC’s mission is “…securing and protecting open, public access to rock climbing in the Red River Gorge area of Kentucky and promoting conservation of the environment on the lands where we climb.”

The RRGCC currently owns over 1,100 acres with 60 established crags and nearly 1,600 routes with sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.3 to 5.15 and counting. Climbing continues to grow in popularity and with this popularity are ever increasing crowding and accumulating environmental impacts. As a nonprofit organization the RRGCC receives publicly donated funds, of which a significant portion it uses to intensely manage its 1,100 acres for the climbing public. In order for the RRGCC to properly allocate its limited resources to meet our dual mission of open, public access and environmental conservation we must be able to track, guide, and manage development on our land.  

Therefore, your cooperation in prior notification to the RRGCC of your intent to develop routes on RRGCC-owned land is required. Please read and sign this MOU and observe the Red River Gorge route development guidelines for all RRGCC-owned land listed below. Thank you!

ROUTE DEVELOPMENT GUIDELINES FOR ALL RRGCC-OWNED LAND

  1. Due to plentiful precipitation, high humidity, and the general moisture in the rock at the Red, stainless steel, or other suitable non-rusting metals or alloys, are recommended for all fixed hardware. Do not mix metals, e.g., stainless steel bolt with zinc plated hanger, etc.
  2. Given the softness of the Red River Gorge’s Corbin sandstone, the recommended hardware is listed below in priority of most to least desirable:
  • Stainless steel glue-in eyebolts, wave bolts, or glue-ins using threaded rods ½” x 4” minimum size, and either epoxy, epoxy-acrylate, or vinylester adhesives.
  • Stainless steel Power-Bolt®+ Heavy Duty Sleeve Anchor or Power-Bolt® Stainless Steel Hex Head Heavy-Duty Sleeve Anchor ½” x 3-½ ” minimum size.
  • Carbon steel 5-piece sleeve anchors are not ideal for the humid, wet environment present in the Red River Gorge.
  • Do not use wedge expansion bolts.
  1. Bolts should be placed at least 5 inches from any edge, corner, crack, ledge, imperfection, pocket, or drilled bolt holes in the most solid rock you can find.
  2. Cleaning loose and friable rock from faces is encouraged for safety on new routes, but avoid changing the rock to make a route easier, harder, or more comfortable. No chipping, no drilling, no “manufacturing,” nor “gluing on” to make a route more, or less, climbable. 
  3. Place fixed anchors on traditional routes, instead of slings around trees. Never rappel directly from trees without using slings as a minimum protection for the trees.
  4. Permanent software (e.g. ropes, webbing, slings, cord, quickdraws, etc.) is strongly discouraged
  5. Consider using easily upgradeable/replaceable top anchors (i.e., lengths of chain, carbon steel, Grade 30, quick links, drop-ins, mussy hooks, all 5/16” diameter, etc.) to help encourage/allow lowering from anchors instead of cleaning routes on rappel to reduce the risk of accidents.
  6. Consider adequate spacing between routes. Try to avoid adding routes in already high-use areas, especially, “squeezing” in another route in an already high-traffic area.  
  7. Try to use/find natural independent starts for routes when possible. Avoid “branching” of sport routes using the same first multiple bolts or ending at the same anchors.  
  8. Consider whether the route will be an adequate height. Try to take the route as close to the top of the cliff face as possible, or within a half-rope length from the ground. If the rock is not climbable for at least 30 feet then please reconsider.  
  9. Route density in an area should be considered, both for the physical environmental impacts associated with high traffic areas but also for the safety of climbers in a crowded, noisy environment.
  10. Consider whether the terrain around the base of a potential route (e.g belay area) can support climbing activity without substantial erosion or impacts to the environment. Avoid developing routes on extremely steep slopes or with belay areas on existing trail infrastructure.
  11. High first bolt on sport routes is the Red River Gorge standard to encourage stick clipping and a “stacked” second bolt to help reduce the chances of ground falls. Place bolts closer in the first or lower half of a route versus the upper half to prevent ground falls. Consider placing bolts closer on moderate routes for the safety of less experienced climbers.
  12. Patching bolt holes that are not usable/reusable is encouraged. Fill holes with the same glue/epoxy used for bolts or a similar epoxy putty and cover with sand, dust, and/or pebbles.
  13. Route names should be chosen with careful consideration and respect for our diverse community of climbers. Route names that are deemed discriminatory or hurtful will not be tolerated.
  14. Replacement of old, unsafe, fixed anchors or hardware is encouraged and permitted in accordance with the standards above. Removal of outdated bolts and reuse of existing bolt holes is encouraged when feasible. Stainless steel glue-ins are highly recommended for any rebolting activity.

ROUTE DEVELOPMENT REQUIREMENTS FOR ALL RRGCC-OWNED LAND

Written notification of intent to develop is REQUIRED to be sent to the RRGCC prior to bolting any route on RRGCC-owned land which will be kept confidentially for land use management purposes only.

  1. DO NOTcut or remove trees or substantial vegetation without land manager approval. Contact the RRGCC for removal.  
  2. DO NOT attempt to cut or install an approach trail. The RRGCC will install official trails and infrastructure, e.g., hardening staging area, stabilizing slopes, steps, etc. Developers may use their own user-defined trails while developing until an RRGCC-authorized access trail is installed.

Publication, online or in print, of any new route(s) must be delayed until the RRGCC has installed any necessary infrastructureto protect the environment. The RRGCC will send notification when a route is cleared for publication and will make every effort to work in a timely manner but delays may occur.

When a new route is complete, the route information must be submitted to this form:https://rrgcc.org/new-route (also available on the RRGCC website under RRG Info > Bolts & Route Development)

If you do not have experience bolting in the Red River Gorge or have limited route development experience elsewhere, please seek mentorship with a knowledgeable developer in the area.

Please initial and sign below:

I have read the above guidelines and agree to abide by these guidelines to the best of my ability. I understand that failure to do so risks my route(s) being removed.



I can attest to possessing ample prior knowledge, skills, and experience to safely & effectively develop new rock climbing routes.



I will follow best practices and use judgment that maintains the best interests of the broader climbing community and future generations of climbers.



NOTE TO ALL DEVELOPERS: Please respect the role you play in the climbing community and be a responsible actor. Educate yourself, practice your craft, share information, consult with fellow developers and ask questions. Here is a suggested bolting resource that is a compilation of multiple bolters/developers from around the world—https://www.slackline.com/boltingbible


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Third Developer Name

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Eighth Developer Name

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Tenth Developer Name

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A signed copy of this waiver will be sent to the email address you provide.
Parent(s) or Court-Appointed Legal Guardian(s) must sign for any participating minor (those under 18 years of age) and agree that they and the minor are subject to all the terms of this document, as set forth above.


By signing below the Parent or Court-Appointed Legal Guardian agrees that they are also subject to all the terms of this document, as set forth above.
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 By checking here, you are consenting to the use of your electronic signature in lieu of an original signature on paper. You have the right to request that you sign a paper copy instead. By checking here, you are waiving that right. After consent, you may, upon written request to us, obtain a paper copy of an electronic record. No fee will be charged for such copy and no special hardware or software is required to view it. Your agreement to use an electronic signature with us for any documents will continue until such time as you notify us in writing that you no longer wish to use an electronic signature. There is no penalty for withdrawing your consent. You should always make sure that we have a current email address in order to contact you regarding any changes, if necessary.


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